ok i did read they do best in schools of 7-15. and need at least a 25 gal tank... perferably a long tank.. hey check out this.. humm its about your fish..
While generally as hardy as any other fishes, danios do not do well if they are kept at too high temperatures. They do best in the lower-level selling tanks. The only disease that danios are susceptible to is velvet, which is caused by an Oodinium parasite. Hobbyists usually can avoid velvet by keeping the water conditions pristine. In addition, it is a good idea to treat danios that have just come into your store with a precautionary dose of copper.

i also read that they jump alot.. so u need a lid on your aquarium as well... i remember even with the top on they jumped out. 2 of the aggresive fish tank did.. through that little slit i dont know how but they did...

Yes, they are jumpers. I believe that's why the one got popeye. He jumped onto the floor while I was moving him from my 14 galon tank into a temporary 1 gallon bowl while I was seting up my 29 gallon tank. I think he got it due to stress and trauma. I think the Melafix and aquarium salt are helping, but it seems like I'm just treating them and they are eventually going to die. They seem to be doing better, but not fully recovering from all of the stress and water changes.

Pop-eye (Exophthalmia) - Symptoms, Causes and Treatment

Pop-eye in itself is not a disease but is more a symptom of an underlying infection. The eye bulges out in this manner because of fluid build up, either behind the eye or in the eye itself. The first signs you will notice is that one or even both eyes are starting to bulge. Slowly with time it can bulge to such an extent that the fish will look really shocking with the bulge.

The bulging eye may have a thin layer of 'skin' around it, this is a tough tissue that covers the eye keeping it in the socket and as the eye bulges it stretches the 'skin' with it. The fish may also get less active and show no interest in food. Fungus infections can show up afterwards.

If this disease is not detected soon after it is caught the fish can lose one or both of its eyes and its eye sight. Any impact the eye might be subjected to generally as a result of fighting, can cause this. If its one eye chances are it's injury, if its both then it is possibly a bacterial infection. Bad water quality is a common reason enough to be the cause. High nitrAtes/nitrItes, ammonia, metal or plastic poisoning can be the reason too. Unsuitable salinity can also be the cause.

Bacterial infections, injury and water quality are the most common problems. Vitamin A deficiency, tumors and gas embolism are less common reasons. Pop eye can also be caused by gas bubble disease as a result of oxygen super saturation (excess levels) of the water with the gas, nitrogen. Super saturation occurs whenever the pressure of a gas in the water is higher than the pressure of the same gas in the surrounding atmosphere, whereby the difference in gas pressures causes the gas to get pulled too quickly out of the fish's bloodstream, leaving behind gas bubbles. The other symptoms of this are the appearance of bubbles under the fish's skin. It's caused by excess oxygen in the water, particularly from filters that blow air directly from outside to inside the tank, and from pressurized tap water that did not get mixed.

Treatment
The affected fish should be immediately taken out to be separately treated. It is difficult to specify a specific treatment unless the main cause is definitely known. Large daily water changes should help, if not Epsom salts has been used with good results to draw the fluid out. One tablespoon per 5 gallons of water for at least three days, longer if necessary. Epsom salts isn't really salt (sodium chloride) it is Magnesium Sulfate. If water quality is the problem, a 50 percent water change must be made as soon as possible.

If a new item was added to the aquarium recently, it should be double checked that it is not poisoning the water or letting off chemicals. The quality of the water conditioner that is used should be checked that it has a good opinion by other aquarists. If the water readings are wrong (high nitrAtes etc), a 50 percent water change is recommended again and 15-20 percent water changes 3-5 times per week, until the water readings are correct. Overstocking is a common problem for high water readings. Another common reason would be decaying dead fish and fish food. The tank should be thoroughly searched for any dead fish and precautions must be taken NOT TO OVER FEED, and if the tank is overstocked, steps should be taken in finding some of your fish another good home. If a bacterial infection is the cause we would recommend 'Maracyn', 'Maracyn II', 'eSHa 2000' and 'Anti-internal bacteria' for treatment.

References - More Information
- On the web: www.aquamaniacs.net

u also said your water temp was at 76.. and that is at the higher temp u may want to cut it down a bit ... 71-77 degrees and they prefer the lower... i think id do it gradually though.. see if that helps too

now i read differently.. 5-6 of them at least...

I did drop the temp. to 72F, but they weren't doing well, so I bumped it up and they seem to be doing best at 76F. My old tank had a cheap pre-set heater that was set to 76F, but it kept the water at around 82F, wasn't good.

The Melafix and aquarium salt seem to be helping as well.

awww i missed that.. i guess u just have to experiment a bit... i am missing fish now lol!! i used to read up on them before we bought them about how they are etc... so although i did not do the tank cleaning... etc.. i did the studies on them... but its been so long..

Not true. Bettas are only aggressive to themselves and to fish that look like them such as male fancy guppies.
The tank has to be at least 5 gallons because they can be territorial in anything under that.
Bowls are for candy or flowers, not fish. Bettas being tropical should be provided with a tank of at least 2-5 gallons with a filter and a heater. People who use the excuse "they come from puddles" are really idiots. They come from ponds, streams, and rice paddies. Rice paddies are expansive bodies of water with other fish, plants, and insects....a whole ecosystem.
I had a betta in a 5.5 with neon tetras. They can be housed with platies, bloodfin tetras, dwarf frogs, female fancy guppies, white cloud mountain minnows, cory cats, and others i cant remember off the top of my head. Fish that are too nippy such as semi aggressives tend to shred a bettas fins. Gouramis are from the same family as bettas and tend to win the fight.

Goldfish are horrible for beginners. They are dirty, they get large and aren't as hardy as people think. Beginners dont know enough to provide the correct size aquarium or pond for the poor goldfish. And 5-10 is an age that a fish that is being abused and neglected might make it to if its lucky. I know lots of people who have goldfish into their 20s.
I have personally seen 14 inch black moors. I can post a picture of a 15 inch oranda that made it to 16 inches.

I just checked on my fish and put more Melafix in the water. They seem to be doing good. I think they are going to be ok. I had a hard time telling which one had the popeye. I had to look a bit closer. It seems to be healing fully. I'm glad it looks like they'll be OK. I put a tiny more salt in the water, because before I only put a little less than half of the amount it said to put in the water, so i put just a little more in.

I'm sorry but everytime I see this post all I can think is:

"Your fish has popeye hostage???"

They're supposed to be prety peaceful fish, I guess I got some agressive ones.

Actually, the one has "calmed" down a lot since he's been sick. He used to bully the other fish a bit, now he is more playful and hasn't bullied them since he's been sick. There was even a day or so where he was blind, but he can see now.

All I can do is laugh...and think quit taking him outta the tank and sqeezing him.

I shot a rabbit once that had blue eyes, one blew this way and the other blew that way.

haha, like one of those stress toys

On a serious note though, would it be ok to do another water change? I did one when I made this topic, but the water is really cloudy now, and the fish are looking dull and their eyes are swollen still. They go up and down, looking good and then bad. Would doing a 5 gal. water change now hurt anything?

I would do at least a third of the tank.

I wouldn't recommend saturating your fish with chemicals unless they have an evident problem. Make sure you monitor the pH, alkalinity, hardness, metals, temperature, etc and get them near the fishes ideal enviroment. I would recommend cleaning your water and tank completely every 2 weeks, and change 2/3 water once or twice a week to reduce fecal matter in water and debris from old food, etc. I know that the filters purpose is that, but no system is 100%, gravel and rocks tend to prevent filter from doing a great job too. I actually have many fish, one amphibian, one reptile, 4 crabs, some shrimp, and a snail, so if you have any questions feel free to ask. I found using less chemicals prevented death of my fish. They can be very sensitive to chemical changes in water.

The only thing I use is Aquasafe. I'm using Melafix and aquarioum salt now, because they are sick. I was using EasyBalance as well, but I suspect it was harming the water quality, so now I only use Aquasafe. I do not want to use chemicals and I would much rather the water naturally work itself out, but the stress of NTS and the trauma of jumping out of the water has taken it's toll on my poor little guys. They seem to be some real troopers though, I suspect they will make a full recovery in a week or so. I just toped off the water a bit and put some Melafix in the tank, they seem to be doing good today, just a little swollen around the eyes, they were a bit dull yesterday, but they seem to be shining up today.

I was really worried for a while, but I think I caught in time, and they should be ok.

You know, I've been thinking about getting a snail to help keep the bottomw of my tank clean. I know they have a funny way of multiplying and can take over a tank. I don't want anything like that to happen, I hear it can be pretty hard to get rid of them. I know pond snails are bad for an aquarium. I would like to get live plants, two bala sharks, and one or two algae eaters. What kind of snail would work best in that enviorment and what kinds of plants should I get? I'm thinking maybe one or two plants will work. I don't want to overcrowd the tank too much.